Kirtle Dress

 

I made this dress in conjunction with my medieval referee project. My wife is like my biggest cheeleader and support so I wanted to take her with me to the Rennaissance Faire I was going to and I wanted her to have a pretty costume to wear. I had an excess of red linen so I decided to make her a kirtle, a supportive, form fitting garment that could be worn by itself or under a Coathardie.

Design

Every great project starts of with a good design. This was just a research image I found online about what a kirtle should look like.

Flat Pattern

This is basically a bodice sloper that I just extended to the width of the fabric from the hips

Mockup Front

Pretty straight forward sloper pattern with extra seam allowance that I tightened until it sat right and then I marked on the fabric where the new seams would be.

Mockup

Chemise

once the pattern was made up I made a cotton chemise/slip to go underneath the dress for comfort and cleanliness.

First Fitting Side view

I try to never put sleeves on tight garments like this until I’ve dialed in the seams. Otherwise I run a risk of the armseys being too big or small 

First Fitting

This dress is supposed to have a very tight bodice so I had to take in seams on the sides and back

Panel View

I wanted the dress to be really flowy so there are 7 panels. Front back left and right panels, and then additional gores on the left and right, and front middle.

Final Fitting

Final fitting and marking hems 

Closure Interface

This interfaceing was hard to punch through for the eyelets but very necessary given how tight the garment is.

Final Product

I added the gold tippets and belt for a little more theatrical flare

My Lady and I

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